For our second big summer holiday living in Europe we spent two lovely weeks in Portugal and Spain. First stop, Lisbon! We arrived on Friday night to a nice cool breeze off the Tagus and warm temperatures. Our hotel, Gat Rossio, was very much like a Standard in Los Angeles - modern, clean, simple and unique. It sits right in the city center making our evening walks easy and convenient.
We ate on the main strip - yummy clams with big chunks of garlic and arroz de mariscos. The small tiled and uneven streets were full of people, vendors, cafes and all sorts of shops! Up in the hillside you can see the beautiful St. George's Castle (millennium old walls).
We started off our morning with pastries, coffee and chorizo on the hotel's terrace. The sun was out, temperature slowly rising and we were ready to see the city. Lisbon is the capitol and largest city of Portugal. It is also ranked the 25th most livable city in the world and we could definitely see why. Lisbon is one of the oldest cities in Europe, outdating Rome, London and Paris.
Our Saturday was spent exploring various sites and monuments. We started at the Monument to the Discoveries (local name: Padrao do Descobrimentos). The monument was completed as a model for the Portuguese world exhibition and set up on the bank of the Tagus River in its current form in 1960. It represents the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator, who gained great honor in the "Estavo Novo".
We then made our way to the Belem Tower - the city's most well-known icon and symbol of the Age of Discovery. Built in 1515 as a fortress to guard the entrance to Lisbon's harbor, the Belem Tower was the starting point for many voyages of discovery, and for the sailors it was the last sight of their homeland. Also UNESCO has listed it as a World Heritage monument.
Another World Heritage monument seen today - Jeronimos Monastery - the resting place of Vasco da Gama - a Portuguese explorer, one of the most successful in the Age of Discovery and the commander of the first ships to sail directly from Europe to India.
On our walk back we stopped for lunch at Meninos do Rio - a lovely restaurant/bar on the Tagus River. We enjoyed our savory meal and couldn't take our eyes off the water and view!
Our last night in Lisbon ended in the Bairro neighborhood. This neighborhood is lively, full of music, people, good eats and a ton of charm. We sat outside in an alley and had an a lovely dinner at Tapas Bar 28. Fish ceviche, chorizo and patata, mussels and cod fish cakes were devoured in minutes and followed by a pitcher of sangria. We wandered the alleys and found to-go beers and crowds of people to sit amongst, listening to tunes, people watching, and finally walking back to our hotel - we already can tell we will miss this city.
While we were sad to leave Lisbon we looked forward to logging some serious beach time in Lagos. We hopped on a morning bus and landed ourselves in Lagos 4 hours later. We stayed in Luz Beach in our own beach front apartment. It was hard not to always want to sit outside on our terrace, sipping on wine and nibbling on Portuguese meats and cheeses.
The beach was packed with locals, tourists, families, and couples – all wanting to soak up the sun and nap away. For the evening we ended up at a pizzeria before retiring for the night. The next day Kirk and I took a little jog along the coast – the sun was hidden that day as clouds rolled in. We spent most of the day relaxing inside, reading, napping, and playing Quiddler!
Once the rain stopped we headed for the beach and had a nice stroll along the water. We hit up a happy hour in Lagos at The Jam – drinking local brews (Estrella Galicea) and enjoying all the Aussies! Lagos is packed with young party-goers seeking the next happy hour, cheap eats and dancing. We spent a lovely dinner at Amabis. Wonderful service, yummy entrees, and of course more sangria! Kirk had a glass of Port to top off the dinner.
The forecast said showers but instead we had sunshine for our last day at Luz Beach. We set up our umbrella, did some reading, kicked a ball around, and took a dip in the sea! We ended our last night listening to tunes on our balcony – people watching and simply enjoyed our surroundings! Truly lucky to be there and experience Portugal – such a beautiful place and really lovely people!
After another 4 hour bus ride, picking up our rental and trying our best to navigate around Spain, we hit our next destination – Seville!
Narrow cobblestone roads, in some parts lined with orange trees, in Barrio Santa Cruz reminded of us of the maze of streets in Marrakech. Located near the Alcazar – once a Jewish ghetto, this area is known for its wrought-iron gates, flower-filled balconies and tiny squares. Also nearby are the pretty Jardines de Murillo. We stopped at a hidden tapas bar called Bodequita Fabiola. The server lived in the states for about 9 years (her mom is American) and she shared some ideas of places to see, things to do, and food/drinks to try to out. We had some pulpo (octopus) a la gallega and tortilla paired with a lovely dry white wine. She gave us a sample of local wine made out of orange as well – we were surprised by how much we liked it – not too sweet!
Afterward we made our way around through the scorching sun and walked thru the Cathedral de Seville and Giralda Tower. The cathedral is noted as being the largest Gothic church in the world. Inside the cathedral you will find a monument to Christopher Columbus and works by Goya (one of Spain’s famous artists). Nearby is the Alcazar palace and Plaza del Triunfo. The Gilrada Tower is attached to the cathedral – today it’s Seville’s most famous symbol.
We continued across the bridge to a popular street filled with restaurants and bars, all closed for siesta – which we decided was needed in order for us to enjoy a Flamenco show and the Seville nightlife. We had a lovely late dinner at Vineria San Telmo – one of Seville’s best tapas bars. The sangria was to die for and the tapas gave us the ultimate food coma. We walked around the Jardines de Murillo before heading to bed.
The next day started with some pastries and café con leche before heading off on a walking tour of the city. First stop, Plaza de Espana. The main feature of this striking plaza is it is semicircular complex. They also filmed one of the Star Wars movies here. We looked around all the alcoves, which have tile murals depicting the charateristics of Spain’s 50 provinces. I noticed this venue was not just a place for tourist, but locals surrounding the grounds, walking around, sitting and reading, and enjoying the sun.
After the plaza we ended in the beautiful Parque Maria Luisa. This park included ponds, benches, birds, and trees and water fountains. It was very peaceful and a great place for a picnic.
Along the route home we saw the Plaza de Toros de la Maestra/Museo de la Maestranza.
Spain is especially famous for bullfighting—and the Maestranza bullring is the most famous ring in the world. It's mentioned in countless novels and films, and even featured in the opera Carmen. The ring is also huge: it holds over 13,000 people. Between Easter Monday and the Feria de Abril there are fights and on Sundays and holidays through October.
That night, we started off at Bar Alfafa - another tasty tapas bar. We loved the arrangement of tiny bites, sangria and Cruz Campo beers!!! A local bartender filled us in about a bar called Carboneria which hosts flamenco dancers every night. We really enjoyed the show, atmosphere and stroll around Barrio before heading to bed.
After a fantastic stay in Seville we took our car and headed to Nerja with a few stops on the way. Our route placed us on the windiest road, but the view was spectacular. We saw beautiful hills, mountains, cliffs, rivers, crops, cattle, and sunflowers. First stop, Arcos de la Frontera (part of province of Cadiz) – beautiful white buildings, sleepy streets, narrow steep roads, hidden churches, we were happy to stop by for a bit.
Second stop, Ronda. Ronda is a bit bigger - more vibrant with a ton of tourists. This city is part of the province of Malaga. We had paella at El Porton and walked around the squares and three bridges, the main one being Puente Nuevo which looks over the canyon - stunning!
Second stop, Ronda. Ronda is a bit bigger - more vibrant with a ton of tourists. This city is part of the province of Malaga. We had paella at El Porton and walked around the squares and three bridges, the main one being Puente Nuevo which looks over the canyon - stunning!
Final stop for the day, Nerja. The centre of Nerja town is called the Balcon de Europa. It is a wide palm-fringed promenade built on a cliff top over an old morrish castle, with sweeping views of the Mediterrranean.
During high season there are plenty of things going on along the promenade. You can have your portrait painted, hair braided, a tattoo, eat ice-cream, listen to a band, watch flamenco dancing or just sit at a table with a drink and watch the world go by. We went to a local joint for dinner, Taller de la Tapa and after watching some Malaga futbol, we took a stroll around the Tutti Frutti Plaza.
The El Savaldor Church is also at the edge of the balcon.
The next day we walked to the popular Burriana Beach. The beach was packed – we have never seen a beach so crowded. We ended the afternoon at Ayos where they cook legendary paella over a huge fire – all you can eat I might add.
Our night ended with a traditional Spanish dessert called Torrijo, which is basically French toast with whipping cream and ice cream – very good - must learn how to make!
Our last beach day was spent on a smaller local beach. The weather was hot and the water was warm, clear, and perfect! We had to hit up Ayo for more paella – Kirk had seconds again! The beach was full of energy, laughter, picnics, and plenty of sunbathing. It was hard leaving at the end of the day.
Week 2 started off in Granada! It was 42 degrees celsius (108 fahrenheit) around the time we arrived, making walking around the streets a bit unbearable. We sat around poolside during siesta resting up for our big night out. Granada is a warm, welcoming city with older and modern styles.
We walked around the landscape of the Alhambra, and through the narrow streets of Albayzin and Sacromontes. We discovered a perfect view on the top in a small park – plenty of couples, kids, and families walked around the area though it was pretty late.
Bright and early we made our way to Alhambra. The walk there was beautiful, especially around the outskirts of the Alhambra – the trees were so green, and tall, helping create plenty of shade and the perfect temperature! The Alhambra is a palace, a fortress, and a settlement, all at the same time. Ever since the Middle Ages when it was built, the Alhambra monument site has been known in history as a unique sample of Arab culture in the Western world.
We loved the intricate detail each portion of the castle had – rooms, palaces, arenas and gardens, the detail was amazing!
After Alhambra we sat near the riverside cafes around the Darro River – tapas of course and my favorite – Melon con Jamon. Kirk sipped, and dipped his churros in, his café con leche – yummy!
Later that evening we had a bottle of wine outside the Granada Cathedral before diving into the neighborhood's labyrinth for Moroccan food at Libenese. We really enjoyed our pastela and tangine dinner.
The next day we drove 2 hours to Malaga which was a very beautiful drive. There were thousands of olive trees lined up and the hillsides reminded of us our drive in Los Angeles around the Hollywood Bowl.
Malaga is a stunning place. The city was preparing for a huge summer festival the following week called Feria de Malaga. Different shops, hotels and restaurants were placing up their décor and posting party signs for the big event. The city was already full of color, music and merriment in its approaching days. The festival represents the commemoration to the entrance of the Catholic Kings in Malaga following their victory of the Moors and reacquisition of the city.
We stayed at the lovely Molina Lario hotel which sits in the heart of everything. This hotel was in a great location, had a rooftop pool and even a little putting green 6 stories up (Kirk accidently hit the ball over the side, so kinda dangerous). We had access to a lovely park, the port, plenty of restaurants, and to many of the special tourist attractions.
After our walk through the park we made our way up to the Alcazaba and old fortress Castillo de Gibralfaro. The hike was tough, but definitely worth it. Such stunning views of the city, the cathedral, the futbol arena and the bull ring. Built in the 8th century, the fortress is argauably the most important historic monument in Malaga. It was originally built for the governers of the city.
Unfortunately we were not able to see a bullfight at the Malagueta Bullring – they were only happening on Sunday’s – but I would have to say I am a bit relieved, the whole thing seems a bit too barbaric for me.
Our evening was spent walking aimlessly around our neighborhood, trying to pick the right spot for tapas and drinks. I love Spain and the energy at night!
The next day we rented bikes from Bike2Malaga for 4 hours. We started with a long ride down the coast to the eastern part of the city called El Palo. This small fishing town was lined with beautiful white sandy beaches and plenty of places to eat, drink and enjoy the views. First stop was a lovely bar called El Baheario, on the water surrounded by beach goers and graffiti. We spotted great beaches like Pedregalejo, El Palo and Penon del Cuervo.
After returning the bikes we scoped out the Picasso Museum and had a beer outside the Cathedral. We followed that up with a great last dinner in Malaga at Pepe y Pepa.
Final destination – Barcelona! We arrived early on Friday and checked into the lovely W Hotel and made our way down the beach boardwalk into the city center.
We started our sightseeing at the Sagrada Familia. This giant temple designed by the master architect Antonio Gaudi is still currently under construction and has been since 1882 and they are projecting completion in 2026. This all depends on the funding and resources. It is truly beautiful inside. You can see Gaudi’s influences throughout the city including one of this houses he designed at Casa Mila “La Pedrera”.
Another place you can see Gaudi's work is at the Parc Guell. The main focal point of the park is a beautiful, extremely long and sea serpent shaped, bench that surrounds the main terrace. The park is situated on the hillside, full of gardens, trails and designed by Gaudi. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Gaudi's mosaic work can be seen throughout the park, especially at the entrance.
We walked around the whole city, scoping out Barri Gotic, Born and La Ramba (shopping streets and neighborhoods).
Our night ended with vodka martinis, a stroll around the marina and enjoying our hotel view!
For our final full day in Barcelona we thought we would take advantage of all the ridiculous amenities at the W by spending the day lounging around the pool, enjoying our views of San Sebastian (largest beach) and Barceloneta beaches (famous beach), and just simply relax. Not bad living!
That night we shared a last big dish of Paella at a local beach café – sure will miss some Spanish Paella. A last beer on the beach really felt bittersweet especially since it was 80 degrees and beautiful.
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