Chamonix and Iceland (with spring around the corner)!

The last few months have pretty exciting in the Johnsen household.  We recently revealed the gender of our baby to family and friends - if you didn't know already we are having a girl!  She is healthy, growing and already kicking.  Felt her first kick, unofficially, on March 21st (riding my bike around and couldn't tell if it was her or not) and officially on April 7th (it was definitely happening!). We are doing great (done with the nausea, fatigue and feeling like I am always starving) but I hear that can change again once the third trimester rolls around so wish us luck!

Besides some crazy recent travel we are also in the process of moving.  Our friends Jeff and Nidia are moving to the States in May and will be leaving their beautiful home behind. We couldn't pass up the opportunity to live there!  The move should be relatively easy and we are looking forward to the change and new view of the city.  Future post and pics to come!

Kirk made it out for round 2 of snowboarding in Chamonix, France. This time he was accompanied by our friend, Ben. The weather was perfect - conditions were superb and the weekend couldn't have been any better. What a great way to turn a work trip in Geneva into a weekend on the world's best mountain for skiing/snowboarding.

Shortly after Chamonix, Kirk headed off to Kiev, Ukraine for about 5 days for a Nike commercial shoot. It was his first trip to the Ukraine, and sounds like it's a pretty interesting place. Classic Eastern Block, and still a ton of growth ahead for this country. Some of the neighborhoods he was shooting in were pretty dodgy, and the production company gave him a disposable phone (burner) to use while he was there, so he said he felt like he was in the Ukrainian version of HBO's The Wire. He even went to a big football match while there - Dynamo Kiev vs Dnipro (Dynamo won 2-0). Overall it was a very successful trip and shoot. The commercial can be seen here:

Shortly after Kirk got back, our friend Savinay made it to Amsterdam to visit us on his way to Spain to visit a cousin. We met Sav back in 2007 when we moved to Santa Monica. Many great memories with our buddy, Sav - I am just happy we can create more in Amsterdam. We definitely did the usual - a little bike, boat, drinking Heineken, eating bitterballen and splitting a slice of apple pie!

Since we are moving we decided to throw one last gathering and turned it into a "gender" reveal party!  We asked our guests to fill out whether they believed our baby was a boy or a girl. Once we received all of the votes we handed out cupcakes (the cake color under the wrapping did the revealing for us - pink for girl).  Most guessed boy (about 75%) so it was huge surprise for everyone to find out we were having a girl!  Sharing the news was fun - hearing the news from the technician for the first time was fulfilling and the happiest I have ever been since marrying Kirk. We are so thrilled about this little lady.

Kirk's work, W+K, recently celebrated their 20 year anniversary. The Founder's Day celebration started with a trip around the shores of the Netherlands on a huge ship, then ended in a castle they rented out with a DJ and dinner. There were various costume themes throughout the night - it was a blast.

Being pregnant does not mean the traveling will stop. For the Easter holiday we flew to Reykjavik, Iceland with our friends, Ben and Erica!

Some tidbits about Iceland - population of 320,000 and about 60% of the population live in Reykjavik (which happens to be the world's northernmost capital in western Europe).  Iceland is roughly the size of Kentucky. For food, they are known for their lamb stews, yogurt, and fish. Reykjavik is spread across a peninsula with a panoramic view of the mountains and the Atlantic Ocean. Iceland is the least densely populated country in Europe. It is easy to get away in this city. Within a 45 minute drive you are well outside the city exploring huge waterfalls, geysers, natural springs, volcanos, mountains, dogsledding, horseback riding, whale watching, and the list goes on.

Coming into the city we noticed the Perlan (the Pearl) which is a large dome structure containing/heating the city's water. It is very much a landmark building in the capital. We arrived on a slightly rainy/windy Saturday (checked in to the lovely Hotel Borg) and immediately set out on the streets to explore the surroundings. We stopped in the Icelandic Food Station for some yummy lamb stew with potatoes, cabbage, peas and fish cakes!

Up the street from the Station we walked around the Cathedral (Hallgrimskirkja). This is a Lutheran parish church and the largest church in Iceland.

We walked along the waterfront and observed the Sun Voyager statue.  This sculpture depicts a dreamboat, an ode to sun.

For dinner that evening we had a table at The Fish Company. It was extremely tasty - I think I had the best dish - cod, with bacon foam and mashed potatoes! The gang sipped on Viking beer and we kept warm in the cozy atmosphere!

Sunday morning we had an awesome brunch at Laundry Mat. Kirk and I split the the Dirty Brunch - breakfast potatoes, fried tomatoes, greek yogurt and muesli, bacon, sausage and pancakes and rye bread. Amazing meal and a good way to start off our day. Today's adventure involved a popular tourist route called the Golden ring. The drive overall is about 300 km with stops in Pingvellier, Geyser, and Gullfoss.

The Pingvellier (Thing Fields) is a very popular destination for its rift valley that marks the crest of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge).

In Geyser, we visited the erupting spring Strokkur. We watched the fountain geyser eject from the ground about every 4 minutes and up to 20 meters high. The depth is about 75 feet where the water contacts the hot rocks and gets to about 248 degrees Fahrenheit. Geysers are pretty rare (only exist in few places on Earth).

Last stop, Gulfoss. The Gulfoss (Golden Falls) is a massive waterfall and noted as the most popular tourist attraction in the country. We walked down the side, propped ourselves on a safe landing and watching the water power it's way down the many crevices.

Had to help ourselves to fish and chips at Icelandic Fish and Chips!

Final day, we made our way to the Blue Lagoon with some side road stops to explore the landscape which is quite beautiful - moss covered black rocks, flat lands, snow-capped mountains in the distance, with no sign of wildlife.  My mom said it reminds her of what the moon would be like.

The Blue Lagoon is a geothermal spa located in a lava field. There are various temperatures throughout the lagoon - luke warm, cold, hot and piping hot. We all managed to find sweet spots and cover ourselves in silica mud. You place the mud on your skin for about 5-10 minutes or until it hardens.  

The water is rich in minerals (sulphur and silica) and supposedly help people suffering from skin diseases. The Blue Lagoon also hosts a Research center focusing on cures for skin ailments.

It was hard to leave such a beautiful place. Highlights had to have been the Blue Lagoon and the food with out a doubt! Thanks for the great trip, Erica and Ben!

Japan, Iced Over Amsterdam, and Bre is having a baby!

It's been a busy few months for the Johnsen's! To start, in early January I made my way to DC for a few days for a conference and to see my childhood friend, Christine, and her baby boy, Oliver.  I had a really nice time seeing her, her husband Donald, and Tim (Christine's brother).

After the conference I jumped on a flight to Seattle for a much needed post-Christmas visit with family and a few friends!  It was so great seeing Emily and Kai (with her growing belly and son Jackson).  Lisa and Emily also managed to get away from their busy schedules to briefly see me for coffee!  And last I was able to see Ryan and Nicole for dinner and hang out with Erin, Tyler, my Mom and Dad!

The day I got home, Kirk took off for a few days for a conference he had with EA in Barcelona. Coincidentally, he stayed at, and had all his meetings in, the same W Hotel we stayed in this summer. Being that this trip was in January, and work-related, he spent far more time in the hotel and didn't enjoy near the weather we had this summer, but things are never too bad when the cast of Star Wars are around and you're eating good tapas!

In late January, we went to visit our good friend Jake who moved to Japan for 2 months. We've wanted to go to there for a while, and this was a great excuse to do that, and spend some time with Jake and his girlfriend, Annie-Rose! Our first stop was Tokyo, where Jake was living; it's the capital and the largest metropolitan area of Japan. It's also noted as one of the command centers for the world economy, along with London and New York.

For our first few nights we stayed in the area of east Shinjuku within Tokyo. We explored the neighborhood and made our way to Azabu Juban (Roppongi area) where Jake lived for the past couple months.  For the best view of Tokyo, Jake shared with us the Mori Tower view - 360 degrees of cityscape - stunning.

From the tower we took the subway to Shinjuku for a lovely sushi dinner at Kyubey - which is apparently the place to get sushi. We did a little research on where to eat, but really lucked out with this place. We all agreed that we never experienced sushi that was so exceptional!

Some immediate observations of the city: pedestrians always stay on the right side on escalators to let people pass on the left, but everyone generally walks on the left (unless the signs say to walk on the right); technological toilets with warming seats, deodorizors, masking sounds and more; clean subways with heated seats; no trashcans throughout the city; and almost no graffitti.

With full bellies we walked around West Shinjuku-Kabukicho peaking in at unique arcades and game rooms (Pachinko). You can't ignore the Pachinko arcades - they are bright, loud and a dime a dozen.  They are used recreationally for fun and for gambling very similar to slot machines. Another fun stop, Don Quixote (a discount chain store), was 6 stories of everything you can imagine - groceries, electronics, perfume, designer purses, ipods, costumes and clothing. A little bit like an insane and claustrophobic Target.

We couldn't help but stick our heads into these unique gaming rooms - shocked by what the locals spend hours and hours of time trying to win - the next trinket, a massive can of Pringles, and sexy figurines to name a few.

My favorite toy had to be Gloomy The Naughty Grizzley.  Gloomy is based off a cartoon where he lovingly plays with his owner then mauls him to death. Incredible.

Another observation in this neighborhood - young males with Rod Stewart like hair, jewelery and tight clothing. You would find them on most corners - talking it up with tourists.  It appears to be a newly booming phenomenon in Tokyo called male host clubs.  The point - women will buy expensive drinks so they can talk to these young men. Supposedly they are not the best looking, but they are the best talkers!

Last stop of the night - the Golden Gai Bar district. This area is famous for its nightlife and is composed of a network of narrow alleys, connected by narrower passageways. There are over 200 shanty-style bars, clubs and eateries. We made our way into Albatross for a nice cocktail.  The bar had a low ceiling and could only hold about 8 persons including the bartender.

We woke up the next day to a 5 and then a 5.5 earthquake. Earthquakes are a common occurrence in Tokyo - so common families will tape their fridges shut when they go on holiday to keep them from popping open and all their food spoiling. After the quakes, we made our way to Shinjuku station which is actually the 2nd to largest station in the world, bringing in 3.5 million people per day. From the station we headed to the Shibuya area. Here we walked across the Shibuya crossing - the largest pedestrian intersection in the world and really one of the quintessential Tokyo experiences.

Next we went to Harajuku (large shopping area), where the people watching was fantastic, particularly on Takashita Street. This street is lined with fashion boutiques, cafes, restaurants and a ton of unique characters (kids dressed up in an array of styles). Every Sunday, young people dress up like gothic lolita, visual kei, and decora.

We eventually found our way over to the neighboring Meiji Shrine (the Shinto shrine is dedicated to the deified spirits of Emperor Meiji and his wife).  The shrine is located in a beautiful evergreen forest.

Amongst the trees we saw barrels of sake wrapped in straw with beautiful art painted on each individual one.

We ended the evening with an amazing meal with Amos and Natsuko. Natsuko lived with Jake's family in high school as an exchange student.  They were kind enough to shepherd us through a Fugu meal. - aka puffer fish served in many different ways over multiple courses at a nearby restaurant. They served noodle like structures out of the skin, a fin steeped sake, and a massive plate of (some) still moving Fugu to boil ourselves at the table, just to name a few. A big thanks for to Natsuko and Amos for showing us the way to eat Fugu, we couldn't have managed without them. We also, couldn't help ourselves but trying Ramen at a tiny joint owned by a lovely couple later that night - 60 years this noodle bar has been open and passed on through 3 generations!

After dinner, we ended the night with some hip hop and dancing at Gas Panic. Fun times!

The next morning started with an early 3 hour train ride to Kyoto. We sped past Mount Fuji and all the beautiful landscapes of Japan. Kyoto is centrally located on the main island and is now the 7th largest city of Japan.

Our first night there consisted of walking around the city and building an appetite for conveyor belt style sushi!

Bright and early we started the day with the Southern Higashiyama Walking Tour.  The tour covers Chion-In, Yasaka-Jinja, Ninen-Zaka, Sannnen-Zaka (beautiful narrow streets with boutiques), and ending at Kiyomizu-Dera (temple famous for its large wooden terrace).

It started to snow tiny delicate flakes while walking around the forest and cemetery inside the grounds of  Kiyomizu-Dera (an independent Buddhist temple). This is how I pictured Japan in the winter - beautiful, green, sprinkled cherry blossoms here and there, cold, peaceful - it was pretty magical.

The temple dates back to 778 and the present structures were built in 1633.  There is not a single nail used in the entire temple.

Our long day of exploring ended in the covered food marketplace in downtown Kyoto, Nishiki Market, and the shopping street, Kawaramachi-Dori. This market contains many of Kyoto's traditionally famous foods and goods!

The next day we made the trek to Fushimi Inari-Taisha shrine which is located at the base of the Inari mountain.  Inari is the Shinto god of rice, and foxes are thought to be his messengers. As you hike up the various trails you will see many smaller shrines which include fox statues. This shrine is most famous for its countless torii gates (orange planks lining the footpaths and scenic views) offerings by worshippers, that cover the hiking trails.

The following day, Annie-Rose and Jake continued to Koyosan to stay at a Buddhist monastery.  The monasteries on the mountain function as hotels for visitors providing traditional accommodation with an evening meal and breakfast. They also set time aside for prayer and meditation. 

Kirk and I instead headed to the third largest city by population in Japan, Osaka. We stayed at the lovely Swissotel Nankai and immediately headed down to the arcade area called Dontonbori - neighborhood off the Dontonborigawa River.  

The area was lined with many markets, shops, restaurants, arcades, and the famous noodle house Kamukura.  Like many noodle houses, you order your food outside (plug in what you want and pay), then enter the place, get a seat right up at the counter and then you will be served.  It was very tasty and my favorite ramen noodle throughout the whole trip!

The night was busy, bright and alive (you might recognize this place in the movie Blade Runner)! Osaka was a wonderful stop for our Japan adventure!

The next morning, before meeting up with Annie-Rose and Jake to make our way back to Tokyo, we went to the Osaka Port.    

After a long, cold day of travel back to Tokyo, we rested up and set an early alarm for the next morning to get over to the famous Tsukiji Market. The market is located off the Tsukiji River and is also known as the Tokyo Metropolitan Central Wholesale Market. It is the biggest wholesale and seafood market in the world.  Before walking around the market we stopped in a small spot for sushi breakfast - it was divine!

The market includes more than 400 types of seafood with the total value of approximately 5.5 billion US dollars per year.  3 a.m. is the usual opening time for the auctioning houses to estimate the value and prepare the seafood for the auction. The auction starts at 5:20 a.m. and bidding can only be done by licensed individuals. It is a lot like Wall Street but with seafood. The gathering adjourns around 7 a.m. - purchased fish are loaded and shipped off or they are carted over to the many shops lined in the market.

The scene is quite chaotic - cars, vans, bikes and scooters zoom by to their next destination while the smaller shops with in the market prepare their fish by sawing them down, placing them in coolers and waiting for clients and tourists to arrive.

After the market we took a stroll around Electric Town (Akihabara) and Kitchen Town neighborhoods.  We snacked on roasted sweet potatoes - vendors would bake them and hand them out in paper bags - an amazing treat.

We had happy hour drinks at Azubu and dinner at White Smoke (owner is originally from the States) a slow roast bbq restaurant - it was nice to have a different type of cuisine during our stay!

For our last day in Tokyo we walked around Shibuya and Takashita Street for some last minute shopping and further explored Yoyogi Park. Yoyogi Park is a popular place for every type of hobby, sport and walking. We spotted freestyle basketball, a skateboarding dog, hacky sack, picnicking, dog parks, martial arts, groups playing music, bike lanes, trails and even karaoke. It is the largest park in all of Tokyo and a very popular hangout, especially on Sundays you will see a lot of the kids from Takashita street will hang out in their unique outfits and parade around.

The next day we flew home - but what a wonderful trip with a great couple, Annie-Rose and Jake! Japan is beautiful and a must if you are an adventurous person.

One of the ongoing discussions we had while in Japan was how cold it was. It didn't help that we were always exposed to the elements, walking around outside for hours at a time. I thought it was freezing, but was met with a cold homecoming in Amsterdam.

For the first time since 1997 the canals in Amsterdam had completely frozen over.  This is a huge deal to the dutchies since generally leads to a ton of iceskating and the 11 cities race!

The 11 cities race or tour (Elfstedentocht) is a speed skating race (at about 200 km) with about 200 contestants. It is held in Friesland (north of Netherlands) and goes to each city of the province. The ice needs to be at least 15 cm thick for this race to take place - so when there is enough ice, the tour is announced and starts within 48 hours. Unfortunately as the race day approached the ice did not meet safety standards and the 11 cities tour was called off.

Luckily that did not stop Amsterdam from day to evening strolls, skating and partying on the ice. We really enjoyed walking all around the canals, under the bridges, and making stops at hot chocolate stands with shots of Baileys! Beers, water, gluhwein, pea soup, you name it - the Dutch were selling it!  I even witnessed a techno disco party - party goers dancing the night away directly on the Prinsengracht Canal.

Instead of the 11 cities race Amsterdam held the Keizergracht Race.  This race took place between Leidsestraat and Nieuwe Spiegelstraat on the Keizergracht. The race started with children then adults competing in the 150 meters race. The evening felt like Queen's Day on Ice - a massive party, huge crowds, a lot of joy and festivities in the air!

One day at lunch, Kirk managed to grab a pair of skates and ride along the Prinsengracht just down the canal from our house. You couldn't stop anyone from bringing their hockey sticks, skates, baby strollers, sleighs and bikes onto the ice! No one seemed phased or paranoid by the idea of placing hundreds of people on the iced over canals - but it was worth the risk!

A wonderful memory that I will always cherish about Amsterdam - considering this is a once in a lifetime event for us while we are here!  Hard to say when the next freeze will occur.  Here's a wonderful video put together for this years Frozen Canals!  Enjoy!

 

And last but not least we are happy to announce that we are pregnant and due in early September.  We are extremely thrilled for our next big adventure - becoming parents. Until then we hope to get in a few more trips, share some adventures and relax a bit before our lives change for the better! We discovered Baby Johnsen on Christmas day - what an unbelievable gift! Thanks for all of your love and support during this time!